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| Does leading your mule feel
like dragging a ton of bricks? |
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Be consistent with your cue to "walk on," wait a
second and if your mule doesn't step out, follow up
with a tap of the crop or lead |
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When leading your mule, confidently expect him to be
with you. If he isn't, it's because you trained him
not to |
Does leading your mule feel like
dragging a ton of bricks or does he lay on you when you’re
leading him? If so, the root of your frustration is that
your mule doesn’t respect you. Much of our mule’s attitude
comes from us; they are herd animals needing a strong
leader. If you allow your mule to intimidate you, he will.
This doesn’t mean you need to beat him, just be persistent.
Once he begins respecting you on the ground, his
under-saddle performance will also improve.
Many of our mule’s problems arise
because we don’t take the time to understand their nature or
be consistent. We allow them to do something, then get mad
because they do. Our mule pushes us. What do we do? We
let them, until it becomes an annoying “bad habit,” one we
taught them. One of the biggest obstacles you’ll face in
reforming your mule is reforming yourself. We must earn our
mule’s trust and respect by giving them precise guidelines
of acceptable behavior, much like their mothers did. Watch
any mare and foal. She’ll tolerate just so much then give
the colt a warning like ears pinned back or a nasty look. If
the colt doesn’t heed the warning, the colt receives a good
swift kick or bite. We, on the other hand, pick at and annoy
our mule. We get after him by giving him a swat. It has no
effect so we swat a few more times. Before long, the mule
completely ignores us. If we did like the mare and gave him
one good sharp, fast smack or jerk on the lead he’d think
twice about his behavior.
To start reforming Old Ned, teach him to
lead and respect your space. You’ll need a halter, leadrope
with a tail, or a crop. Lead your mule about 20 feet, then
stop and analyze what you did. Did you pull him to start?
Were you holding the lead in a short deathgrip? Were you
staring at him? All this affects his behavior. Try again.
Hold the lead about sixinches from the snap, look straight
ahead, ask him to walk on and when he takes the first step,
boldly step out with him. Expect your mule to be there. If
he doesn’t it’s because you trained him not to.
Look at what you’re doing. Holding the
lead short and tight tells the mule there’s something to
worry about. Staring at him is intimidating and you’re
telling him you don’t trust him to be there. By hesitating
as you step off, you’re telling him you’re not sure of what
you’re doing. Would you follow someone sending you these
messages? And, here’s a big consideration, be considerate
and ask your mule to step off before you start to walk
forward. Get his attention and have him start moving before
you move. Think about it this way, you know you want to walk
off so you do. He has no idea you are going to move until he
feels a tug on the lead. You give the cue; it goes from your
brain to your hand. Then it has to go to your mule feeling
the tug on the halter to his brain then through his whole
body to his feet. That takes a second to happen. If you give
him time to respond, then walk off, most likely the two of
you will walk together with no tugging on the lead.
So, to get your mule leading with little
effort, hold the slack lead in your right hand and your crop
or lead tail in the left. Look straight ahead and tell him
to “walk on.” Give him a second to start moving before
boldly stepping out. If he doesn’t move, as you lift your
leg to step forward, reach behind you and give him a tap low
on the rump with the crop or tail. Be cautious, he may kick.
Correct him with a hard jerk on the lead and a loud, sharp
“NO!” Take a deep breath and calmly try again. If he kicks
again, get professional help immediately!
Some mules will give a little jump or
trot forward. Let him. Keep your lead slack so you don’t
accidentally jerk him. You want him to go forward. Usually
he’ll walk fast or trot a few steps then settle. Praise him.
Be consistent with your voice cue to “walk on,” wait a
second and if he doesn’t step out, follow up with a tap of
the crop or tail. Before long he’ll get the idea and move on
voice alone. If he pulls sideways, you might want to work
about 10 feet from a fenceline to help hold him. Eventually
he will move off in a straight line.
When leading, never allow your mule to
bump or walk on you. If he does, tightly place the crop
under your right arm pointed straight at his side. When he
leans into you, let him poke himself with the crop. After a
few unpleasant pokes, he should back off and respect your
space. If not, throw your weight into him and lean as hard
as you can on him. Make him as uncomfortable as he’s made
you. Don’t get mad, just be persistent. He’ll soon get the
message, then praise him.
Teaching your mule to lead well and show
respect is an important aspect of any training program. It
just takes giving your mule a chance with a little time and
patience.
Susan Dudasik is an equine
journalist, PATH Intl. Certified riding instructor and a
mule enthusiast. She’s competed in numerous trail class
events, holds clinics and teaches groundwork and trail
classes at Misfit Farm in Salmon, Idaho. The advice given
here is meant only as a guide. A professional trainer should
handle any serious mule training problems.
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